INSTRUCTIONS FOR ODORXIT CONCENTRATE – RECOMMENDED USAGE:
Product MUST TOUCH source of odor to eliminate it!
You may have to leave product on the contaminated area several hours before odor is gone.
Follow directions for best results –
Note: Concentrate must be diluted with water. Never use full strength.
-May be used in a trigger spray, carpet machine (with or w/o shampoo) or ½-2 gal Yard Sprayer. Also in the washing machine.
Instructions for OdorXit Concentrate: Must be diluted with water normally 1 part concentrate to 30 parts water This could be measured as 3 Tablespoons water to 1 (one) quart water. But never use more than 1 to 15 for it to work properly.
THREE (3) Table spoons equals one ounce.
The dark line on the bottle equals Two (2) ounces.
Recommended amounts are included within descriptions below.
A 16 oz. bottle will make up to 4 gallons and eliminate organic odors in 1,000 square feet of wood or concrete flooring.
Odorxit Concentrate is an Odor Eliminator, not a cleaner, so most projects will need to be cleaned first before Odoxit solution can be applied for best results.
Odors OdorXit Concentrate Cannot Eliminate All Odors. Though OdorXit is the most effective organic odor eliminator ever formulated and it can and does eliminate many organic odors, there are odors that even OdorXit can not and will not eliminate.
They include: Tobacco smoke odors, Fire and smoke odors, wet dog smell and inorganic odors like gasoline and heating oil. Urine can be removed from carpet and fabrics but will not eliminated from carpet padding. The carpet padding must be removed.
For very small areas (one time pet accident), a trigger pump sprayer is completely acceptable / Just spray area to wet and let dry naturally. Mix 1oz (3 Tablespoons) per one quart water.
How do I treat solid surfaces?
Clean and rinse the contaminated areas with TSP (tri-sodium phosphate) or Spic and Span. Allow cleaned areas to dry completely or use a wet/dry vac to remove the spent cleaner and rinse water.
Apply Concentrate mixed and diluted as instructed and allow to dry naturally.
For small areas and taxidermy, a ½ gallon hand held tank sprayer will perform well.
For larger areas, you may want to consider a 1 or 2 gallon garden or deck tank type sprayer.
For really big jobs like yards and gardens, several adjustable mixture rate End Hose Sprayers are now available, cost effective and work very well.
Warning! Do not use tank sprayers that have been used for bug poison, yard chemicals or deck sealer to apply OdorXit. Always start with a new sprayer and use it only for OdorXit.
Additional Instructions for OdorXit Concentrate:
How do I apply OdorXit® to carpeting?
OdorXit® Concentrate’s unique chemistry makes applying it to contaminated carpeting with a carpet cleaning machine is a natural match. Unlike most odor control products, OdorXit® can be mixed with the carpet shampoo and will benefit from the surfactants (wetting agents) in most shampoos. Applying OdorXit® with a carpet cleaning machine will only affect the contaminants in the carpets nap and the top of the backing, though most if not all of the backing actually needs to be treated.
We recommend that you start your carpet recovery effort with a carpet cleaning machine and apply OdorXit® in combination with the carpet shampoo supplied with the machine (2 to 3 ounces (3 to 6 Tablespoons) of OdorXit® per gallon). There are two benefits to this method of application. The carpet gets cleaned and the wetting agent (surfactant) in the shampoo helps the OdorXit® penetrate more deeply into the carpet nap and backing. On the last pass with the carpet cleaning machine, spray the cleaner/OdorXit® mixture but do not vacuum it out of the carpet. If the odor persists, chances are the padding and/or the flooring underneath the carpet has been contaminated. The flooring, baseboards, trim, etc. will need to be treated. (See applying to solid surfaces)
Repeated urine contamination of carpet, padding and flooring often goes undetected for weeks or months. During this time the contamination can spread far beyond the area being directly contaminated. Finding and treating urine residue that as wicked under walls and floors is often beyond the desire of the user especially if the source of contamination has not been stopped
Fishing odors on your Boat:
Mix 30 parts water to 1 part (Three Tablespoons to one quart) solution and place in sprayer. Apply to areas in boat that need attention. You may need to clean area of debris prior to apply solution.
In a field usage study conducted by “The North American Fisherman Magazine” with over 600 fishermen actually using OdorXit on their hands to remove fishy odors. All but 2 of the participants gave OdorXit top ratings.
OdorXit Concentrate will eliminate fish and bait odors on your hands, clothing, coolers, boats, etc. forever or until you go fishing again!
How do I treat Scent spray? (Cat, Ferret, and Dogs):
Since spray is usually on a vertical surface (wall, window or door frame, door, back of sofa, etc), clean surface with TSP (tri-sodium phosphate) or Spic and Span before spraying OdorXit. Dilute OdorXit® 15 parts water to 1 part OdorXit or 6 Tablespoons per one quart water. Be sure to saturate area and pay close attention to crevices and unprotected trim, bottom of doors, and back side of trim and baseboards. If you are working on scent spray on wall and wood work we recommend that you use half the amount of water when diluting the mixture.
Preparing the affected area before applying OdorXit is very important to successfully eliminating the odor. Washing the area with a good spray on cleaner and using a dish scrubber or brush then rinsing with water will remove most of the surface material, but will not remove the part that has soaked into the wallboard, paneling or grout. Because scent spray odors are so much stronger than normal odors, one application of cleaner and OdorXit may not completely eliminate the odor. The saving grace is that scent markings are usually small. Therefore, large quantities of even high concentration OdorXit are not normally necessary. Again, OdorXit must be allowed to soak into the affected area for it to work. If the spray is on the wall, apply OdorXit to the entire area, wetting the wall, the baseboard, and the area of the floor adjacent to the wall (spray splashes). If the spray is on a piece of furniture or carpet, have the area professionally cleaned before applying OdorXit. If the cleaning person will cooperate, add an ounce (3 Tablespoons) of OdorXit to his cleaning solution. It really helps! OdorXit should be mixed 1 or 2 ounces (3-6 Tablespoons) per quart of water for this application starting with the weaker solution.
Removing Skunk Smell From Pets:
Skunks can spray your dog or cat from as far as 10 feet away and leave them reeking for weeks! Removing skunk spray odor from a dog is normally a labor intensive task requiring bathing, tomato juice, and/or a mixture of hydrogen peroxide, baking soda, and detergent. The bathing part is pretty normal, but the tomato juice is hard to get out of their fur and hydrogen peroxide and harsh detergents will bleach a dog or cat’s coat and burn their eyes, ears and sensitive mucus membranes. And when you are done, there is still a smell of skunk lingering for weeks.
To remove that awful smell quickly and safely, bathe your pet as you would normally using a vet approved detergent pet shampoo and then rinse with warm water. Make sure that you get a good suds going where ever there was skunk spray, even on your pets face. The detergent shampoo removes much of the oily skunk spray and makes what’s left easier for the OdorXit Concentrate neutralize.
Mix 1 ounce (3 tablespoons) of OdorXit Concentrate with one quart of warm water and apply the OdorXit solution with a sponge to the parts of your pet that were sprayed. Use a wash cloth or sponge dipped in the OdorXit Concentrate solution to apply OdorXit to your pet’s face and ears using a downward motion, start at the pet’s forehead and move downward over the eyes when applying solution to your pet’s face to avoid getting product in your pet’s eyes. Do not allow OdorXit Concentrate solution to run down into your pet’s inner ear either but make sure the underside of the ear flap is wetted with solution. After waiting approximately 15 to 30 minutes, rinse your with warm water. Towel dry your pet and allow it to finish drying naturally (no hair drier). Once dry, your pet will no longer smell. The solution smell will fade in a day or two.
SKUNK SPRAY OF FURNITURE AND CARPET:
Dilute Concentrate 30 to 1 or 3 tablespoons per 1 quart water for indoor surfaces furniture, carpeting, and clothing. Spray on affected area and let dry naturally.
SEE odorhalt.com for more instructions for OdorXit concentrate information.
How to Recover Contaminated Flooring:
To recover flooring contaminated by urine, follow this simple step-by-step instructions for OdorXit concentrate:
- Strip the floor of all coverings. Remove all remnants of padding and carpeting. Old linoleum or paint may need to be removed by scraping it with a long-handled ice scraper or a flat shovel. Once the floor is stripped, run a shop vacuum over it to remove any loose dirt and dust.
- Wash the floor with Spic-N-Span (SnS) or Tri-Sodium Phosphate (TSP). [If you use TSP, be sure it contains phosphates.] Mix ½ cup of SnS/TSP per gallon of hot water and spread it on the floor via spraying or scrubbing. If you scrub the floor, only mop along the length of the boards, not across them.
- After 2-5 minutes, vacuum the floor, rinse it with fresh water and vacuum again. Allow the floor to dry over night without fans.
NOTE: If you notice spots of white powder on the floor, rewash and rinse the area. If, however, you notice spots that are black and sticky, you should consider cutting that area of wood out. It is rotting and will continue to do so. Be sure to clean, rinse and treat the wood underneath any areas you cut out.
- The next day, spray the entire floor with OdorXit solution: 4 ounces (12 Tablespoons) per gallon of water. Let solution remain wet on areas for 15-20 minutes, especially in the stained areas. Also spray under the moldings and tack strips, up the wall at least one foot and in any floor-mounted duct work. If the floor boards have holes or if there are cracks in or between the boards, spray OdorXit solution directly into the holes and cracks.
- The next day, air out the treated area and check for urine smells and damp spots. If you notice damp spots, continue to step 6. If you notice areas that are dry but still smell of urine, re-spray and cover the wet area with a piece of plastic. This will retard the evaporation of the OdorXit solution and give it more time to soak into the same areas the urine soaked into. If the smell still persists after this treatment, continue to step 6
- For extreme cases with really contaminated flooring, more aggressive treatment is necessary to eliminate the odor problem. [Extreme cases include flooring that is either just stained black or flooring that, after being repeatedly washed with a variety of detergents and completely dried, becomes wet and sticky again after a few hours.] One method includes sanding the surface of the area that is black and drilling a series of holes through the flooring. The holes provide a path for the OdorXit to get to and neutralize the urea that had soaked into the surface. Another more drastic method involves removing the most heavily contaminated part of the flooring and treating the contaminated wood beneath the surface.
Congratulations! Thanks to a combination of your effort and OdorXit, you have decontaminated the flooring. Now the only way the odor will return is if it is re-contaminated by a pet. But if it happens again, remember that OdorXit gives you the power to conquer any odor a cat or dog leaves behind
Treating Carpet and Tile Glued To Concrete:
If you have urine contaminated Vinyl or asbestos tile or carpet glued to a concrete floor either in a basement or a living area it is almost always necessary to remove the tile or carpet and rubber backing to permanently eliminate all of the odor. Multiple applications of contaminate will slowly penetrate the concrete under the tile, the rubber backing and glue combination of the carpet. OdorXit has to come in contact with all the urine residue left in the concrete, glue and rubber backing.
On tile floors it is often possible to determine exactly where the odors are coming from with bubble mix or gas leak detector or a mixture of dishwashing detergent and water. The water in the mixture accelerates the production of gas causing bubbles to be produced. The bubbles are formed over the joints between the tiles and over cracks in the tile. Mark or map on paper where the bubbles were produced remove and rinse the bubble mix away. Spraying the mixture mentioned above directly into the cracks or gaps where the bubbles occurred. It may take several applications of OdorXit solution over several days to eliminate all the odor. If this procedure fails the tile in the contaminated areas will need to be removed and the area treated more aggressively
The recovery should follow this procedure: 1. Removing the tile or carpet and rubber backing in the effected areas without attempting to remove the glue. (Removing the glue with a solvent, leaves a thin film of glue on the floor. This film acts like a water seal that keeps the OdorXit from penetrating the concrete, but does not stop the odor from entering the room.) 2. Wash the area with Sic-N-Span or TSP. 3. Spraying the area as described above with OdorXit, carpet cleaner and water. (Keep the area wet for 10 minutes) 4. Once all the odor seems to be is eliminated, test the area by spraying a mist of plane water on the floor and wait 1 or 2 minutes to see if the odor returns. If it does, repeat step 3 in the problem area. If not, continue with your recovery/rehab efforts.
Removing pet feces from flooring and carpeting is much easier than urine because it is not a liquid and it does not produce the urea salts. Removing the bulk of the material and washing the area with detergent will remove most of the odor and stain. If the stain is not completely removed with normal detergent, a more aggressive approach is indicated. As an example, carpet cleaners will remove the rest of the stain with a little scrubbing. Finally, spray the area thoroughly with OdorXit Concentrate mixed 1 ounce (3 Tablespoons) per quart of water and allow the area to dry naturally. In an hour or so, the smell will be removed forever. If you are dealing with an overflowed toilet, the problem is a bit more difficult because of the large amount of water added to the urine and feces. If the problem occurred in rental property, it is likely that hours or days have passed since the overflow occurred. After the plumbing is cleared, and the bulk of the overflow has been mopped up, spray the area thoroughly with OdorXit Concentrate mixed 1 ounce (3 Tablespoons) per quart of water and allow the area to dry naturally. Be sure that areas that are hard to clean, like cracks in the tile, the area under the vanity and heating vents in the floor, get thoroughly wetted with OdorXit solution.
Using OdorXit to eliminate urine, mold and mildew odors in bathrooms are a common and effective application. The question is, where to use it and how strong should the solution be? It depends on what the area around the toilet is made of and covered with. If the area around the toilet is all ceramic tile, wash the area with spray cleaner and spray with OdorXit solution. Make sure that all the grout is wetted, as well as the tile and the toilet. Make sure you get the area under the tank. If the walls are covered with wallpaper, the problem will be a bit more difficult. The paste that holds the wallpaper on the wall is water-soluble. This means that the water in the diluted OdorXit will tend to cause the glue holding the wallpaper to release. Replacing the wallpaper may be necessary in some cases simply because the urine has soaked through the paper into the wallboard. If this is the case, remove the wallpaper and residual paste, then spray the wallboard with OdorXit to eradicate the odor source in the wall and allow it to dry completely. Replace the wallpaper with a water-resistant variety, if possible. If the wall covering is Marilite (plastic coated masonite), make sure the seams and any breaks or cracks in the surface are flooded with diluted OdorXit. If the floor is carpeted, refer to the Carpets section. OdorXit concentration for this application should be 2 to 4 ounces (6 to 12 Tablespoons) per gallon.
Basements are great places for odors to hide and grow. Mold, mildew, dead animals, dirty clothing, washing machine run over, and leaky walls all add to the nasty smells found in basement and cellar areas. OdorXit will eliminate these and other odors on concrete walls and floors as well as on wooden rafters. OdorXit concentration for this application should be 2-4 ounces (6 to 12 Tablespoons) per gallon. If there is urine contaminated carpet glued to a concrete floor either in a basement or a living area, it is almost always necessary to remove the carpet, rubber backing and the glue to permanently eliminate the odor. It seems that multiple applications of urine will slowly penetrate the concrete, rubber backing and glue combination of the carpet. A single application of OdorXit will penetrate about the same as one application of urine. This clearly is not sufficient to have OdorXit come in contact with all the urine soaked into the rubber backing, glue and concrete. There are carpet glue release and removal compounds available to make this nasty job a bit easier, but it is still going to be a nasty job. Mold and mildew are living organisms that live and grow wherever there is water and no sunlight. To permanently remove mold and mildew odors, one must get rid of the source. This always involves depriving the affected area of water. The hard part is to determine the source of the water. Once found, it must be eliminated by giving the water another place to go or sealing the area that is damp. Sealing is by far the poorest choice because (as an example) sealing the inside of a block foundation wall can cause the wall to cave in when there is sufficient water standing against the outside of the wall. Installing drain pipes outside the wall or re-grading the soil is most effective. The last choice is to drain the water into a sump pit or floor drain. All basement water problems should be evaluated by a professional to avoid costly mistakes.
Mold and Mildew:
Removing mold and mildew odors from walls and other surfaces with OdorXit involves simply spraying a fine mist on the contaminated areas with a 1 ounce (3 Tablespoons) solution per quart water. When spraying painted walls, care should be taken to avoid runs that can cause discoloration. The discoloration is not from the OdorXit, but rather from accumulated dust and dirt on the wall.
For houses or rooms that have extensive mold, you may want to consider purchasing Room Cleanser or larger sizes of CIO2 chloride dioxide packets (see product list on website at: odorhalt.com)
Removing Odors from Skin:
Eliminating fish, blood, meat and other organic odors from skin is a simple and safe procedure. Wash the affected skin with warm water and mild hand soap, rinse, dry and spray with OdorXit solution mixed 1 ounce (3 Tablespoons) per quart water. Rub the OdorXit lightly until dry. The odor will be gone and the OdorXit odor can be washed off if you are so inclined.
Machine Washable Fabric & Clothing:
Removing organic odors including urine, vomit, spoiled food, mold and mildew odor from machine washable fabric requires adding 1 or 2 ounces (3-6 Tablespoons) of OdorXit to the washing machine at the beginning of the wash cycle. Allow the wash cycle to complete but delay the first spin cycle for 30 to 60 minutes (This can easily be accomplished with most top loading washers by leaving the door open). After the wash/soak time, close the lid and let the machine finish its normal cycles. In some cases, it may be necessary to run the final rinse twice.
Clothing with urine odor can also be sprayed with OdorXit® Concentrate solution. Just a few sprays and in 2 or 3 hours, the urine odor is gone for good. It will not discolor the fabric!
Wheelchairs and Chairs with Padding:
Spray diluted Concentrate on fabric directly generously and let dry naturally.
3 Tablespoons per one quart water
Furniture with Fabric Upholstery:
Organic odors in furniture upholstery can be a bit more difficult because much of the fabric used on furniture is not colorfast. Before you attempt a furniture recovery project, test OdorXit on the back of the piece to see what happens. A nice piece of furniture with watermarks and no smell is not acceptable either. If the furniture fabric is colorfast, remove the bulk of surface material. Wash the stain with a combination of water, mild upholstery cleaner and OdorXit Mix 1 ounce (3 Tablespoons) of OdorXit with each quart of upholstery solution). If you have a wand vacuum cleaner attachment, vacuum the area to extract the residual cleaner, water and contaminant. Then spray on another application of just OdorXit mixed 1 ounce (3 Tablespoons ) per quart of water and allow it to dry. If the contamination has soaked deeply into the padding it will be necessary to treat the padding as a separate item. Sometimes this can be accomplished without removing the upholstery cover, but in many cases, removing the cushion cover will be a better choice because the volume of OdorXit needed to get to all the contamination will be much larger than is needed for just the covering.. In this case and especially with foam padding, you may find that it is cheaper and easier to replace the padding.
Leather & Leather Furniture Upholstery:
Organic odors in leather products of all kinds are a challenge for a number of reasons. Not the least of which is the thickness of the leather. In the case of urine contamination, leather can harbor a large amount of urine residue that translates to normal cleaning methods do not work. Because OdorXit is a contact chemistry product and is intended to neutralize the urine residue rather than remove it, OdorXit is uniquely qualified to work on contaminated leather. There is one issue regarding treating contaminated leather that must not be ignored. Simply getting it wet can radically alter the texture and flexibility of leather. Treating it with detergent, urine, other odor control products and even OdorXit, can do the same. We at OdorXit have gotten feedback from customers and taxidermists who have treated hide rugs successfully with OdorXit. This is a long way from treating glove leather. What we have found that works best is to have the leather cleaned professionally to remove the bulk of urine, and whatever else you have applied to the contaminated area. Do not have the leather treated with softeners at this point. Spray the area front and back (if you can get to the back) with OdorXit mixed 1 ounce (3 Tablespoons) per quart of water, and let it dry slowly. You may have to treat the area more than once over a period of several days to neutralize the urine residue. When you think the odor is gone, spray the area with water and sniff. When the odor is completely removed, the water will generate no odor at all. With the odor removed, treat or have the area treated with leather softener to restore the original texture and flexibility. There are products that you can put on leather that will permanently alter the texture, flexibility and finish of leather. OdorXit is not one of them.
Treating Kennel and Cattery Odors:
Kennels and Catteries, even when cleaned and disinfected on a frequent and regular basis, are subject to odors that do not respond well to over the counter odor control products. Even industrial strength odor control products often have difficulty with urine odors and frequently contain chemicals that are dangerous to both pets and humans. As you already know, bleach does not get rid of urine odors. Even the strongest and cheapest detergent “TSP” does not get rid of the entire urine odor. We at OdorXit would like to offer a solution that is both safe and effective. Instead of trying to digest the odor causing urine byproducts, OdorXit neutralizes these materials rendering them incapable of producing the ammonia and mercaptan gasses that are so objectionable.
Concrete Floor Kennels:
When treating bare concrete contaminated with urine and feces washing the area with nearly any detergent and rinsing with water. Then spray the area with OdorXit diluted 1 ounce (3 Tablespoons) of OdorXit to one quart of water. In cases where the contamination has soaked deeply into the concrete, we have found that adding 1 or 2 ounce of Hoover or Sears carpet cleaning shampoo (those that contain surfactants) for each ounce of OdorXit concentrate in solution increases the penetration ability of the solution. When using any product containing surfactants of any kind, be careful not to get them on your skin as they are capable of soaking right through your skin. That’s why they are mentioned prominently on the warning labels. Finally, when using carpet shampoo with OdorXit, make up only what you can use immediately because the shampoo will slowly disable the OdorXit. Additionally, dogs and cats should not be exposed the surfactants either. If you do use products containing surfactants to get the odors under control be sure to wash and flush the area after the odors have been eliminated to get rid of the residuals.
Cattery cages, show cages and play pens are areas that often suffer from strong odors including urine, feces, vomit, hair-balls and hormonal spray. By far, male hormonal spray is the most pungent and difficult to eliminate. OdorXit is fully capable of eliminating all of these odors, generally with only one application of OdorXit diluted 1 ounce (3 Tablespoons) to one quart of water. Spraying the bottom of litter pans before adding litter will eliminate the existing urine odor and prevent new odor from developing for days.
Garbage and Spoiled Food:
Garbage, spoiled food and rotting meat odors can all be eliminated with OdorXit. The Odor inside a turned off refrigerator or under a sink or counter where food has been allowed to spoil can be treated easily. First remove the bulk of the spoiled food by sweeping and/or washing the area with detergent and water. Then spraying thoroughly with the normal concentration of OdorXit mixed 1 ounce (3 Tablespoons) per quart of water. Refrigerators need to be thoroughly cleaned before spraying with OdorXit. Even the freezer should be completely defrosted, washed and sprayed inside and out. Seams on the interior and gaskets are both areas that need special attention while washing and spraying because they both are areas where spilled foods hide, decompose and produce bad odors. An hour spent cleaning and spraying OdorXit on a really smelly refrigerator can restore a $300 unit to service instead of replacing it with another. Spraying the inside of a garbage can will reduce but often will not eliminate the odor unless the can has been rinsed out prior to spraying because the small chunks of material left in the can do not get soaked with OdorXit. As the material continues to decompose, additional odor is produced. The odor of sour milk in fabric like car seats or carpeting can be eliminated by washing the affected surface area with detergent and water, and then soaking the fabric and padding with low concentration OdorXit 1 or 2 ounces (3 to 6 Tablespoons) of OdorXit in 1 gallon of water). In the case of foam padded seats, several treatments from both top and bottom may be necessary. This is because the foam has a tendency to hide material in nearly inaccessible areas. Unless you really soak the foam, the odor often will return (though substantially reduced) when the car is left in the sun for several hours with the windows closed
Refrigerators that have been turned off and left closed have a truly unique odor that is normally very difficult to eliminate. However, with a little work and OdorXit you can recover even the worst smelling refrigerator. You may want to take the unit outside to do this first step so that you can use a garden hose to rinse out the really bad stuff. Completely defrost the unit. Remove the spoiled food by scrubbing the entire interior of the refrigerator with detergent and hot water. If the freezer is not built into the walls of the unit, use a long thin brush to get between the freezer and the wall. Rinse completely and wipe dry. Spray the entire interior of the refrigerator with OdorXit mixed 1 ounce (3 table spoons) per quart of water. The freezer should also be sprayed inside and out. Seams on the interior and gaskets are both areas that need special attention while washing and spraying because they both are areas where spilled foods hide, decompose and produce bad odors. Next, in the back of many refrigerators, there is either a hole in the interior where 2 tubes emerge from the insulation or there is a small passage that connects the freezer section to the refrigerator section of the unit. Spray this area thoroughly because it is so difficult to wash! If your freezer has large vents along the bottom in the front you may need to remove the plastic floor of the freezer in order to clean the food and goop from the cooling coils that hide within. The foam blocks are very important to the operation of the refrigerator so number them before taking them out so you can put them back in the proper places after spraying them and the cooling coils with solution. Finally, close the doors when you are finished spraying the entire interior of the refrigerator. The next day, briefly air out your refrigerator to purge the residual OdorXit smell and your Refrigerator will be ready for use without the nasty smell! An hour spent cleaning and spraying OdorXit on a really smelly refrigerator can restore a $300 unit to service instead of replacing it with another.
See odorhalt.com for more information on instructions for OdorXit concentrate and how to purchase.
Removing vomit odors requires a 2 step process. The first step is to remove the bulk of the vomit material and thoroughly wash the area with a detergent that is appropriate for the material contaminated. Be diligent in removing as much of the dissolved vomit and detergent/water solution as possible (a Wet/Dry vacuum works great). Remember that vomit contains a significant amount of stomach acid, which will destroy many materials if left to do its damage. If the source is a small pet, the cleaning step can be as easy as blotting up the vomit with a paper towel, for larger animals and humans, the cleaning step must be more aggressive. The second step is to completely wet the area with OdorXit mixed 1 ounce (3 Tablespoons) per one quart water and leave it to dry (slowly). OdorXit alters the remaining odor causing compounds so that they will not produce odors. Auto carpet is often more difficult because it is thin and has a thick absorbent padding (sound deadening material). Additionally, cars are exposed to very high temperatures when left in the sun. The high temperatures will make what would have been a small problem in a house carpet, much larger in a car. However, the solution is the same though it may be necessary to remove both the carpet and padding from the car to wash and rinse it completely. Rinsing with a garden hose and nozzle is very effective. After thoroughly rinsing, allow both the carpet and padding to dry. Apply (by spraying or pouring) diluted OdorXit mixed 1 ounce (3 Tablespoons) per quart (32 ounces) of water on the affected areas (the ones that still smell bad) and allow to dry slowly (not in the sun). When the OdorXit is dry, the odor will normally be gone forever. If it is not, which is occasionally the case for vomit that has been left for several days, apply a second dose of OdorXit solution. More that two applications is almost never required.
Treating extreme contamination:
We at OdorXit, through our help-line and on our own rental properties, have come across situations of contamination that were so bad that extreme measures had to be employed. In a recent case, a room with only pine tongue and grove boards for flooring was severely contaminated with cat urine over many years. Washing the flooring with TSP several times did not stop the urine salts from appearing on the surface after the boards dried. Further, applying several doses of OdorXit did reduce, but did not eliminate, the odor in the room. Taking the step-by-step method of solving a problem, the owner removed several of the boards that were stained the worst only to find that the rafters and ceiling below were also badly contaminated by urine that ran between the boards. In a case like this, it is clear that saving the flooring boards is probably not a cost effective solution, but saving the rafters and ceiling material and replacing some or all of the contaminated flooring would clearly be cost effective and necessary. Another example of extreme contamination involved one of our apartments. In this particular case the carpeting and padding was old and not worth saving for other reasons. The apartment had been vacant for repairs for nearly 2 months before we removed the carpeting in question. The back of the carpet in some heavily contaminated areas was still wet with urine! The padding was unusual in that it was foam padding with a plastic membrane with small breather holes on the carpet side. It appears that this plastic trapped most but not all of the urine between the top of the padding and the back of the carpet. We could have dumped a quart of OdorXit solution directly on the area and not gotten all the smell out. Additionally, the carpet backing in these wet areas was so weak that when it was removed the backing split easily. The flooring under the wet areas was treated with OdorXit. The next day, the urine smell was gone.
Concentrate for Taxidermy:
OdorXit is a very special mixture of water-soluble organic salts and oils that are designed to eliminate organic odors found in taxidermy at their source, forever. To do this, OdorXit mixed with water, must come in direct contact with the material that is causing the odor. This might be the oil excreted from scent glands, or the oil encountered when skinning-out a fish, or any number of other sources. The way OdorXit does its job is not as
Important as the fact that it really does its job well! Odorxit is only water-soluble organic salts and oils, it is safe to use on any hide and does not require rinsing or special treatment after use. There will be no perfume smell or lingering odor.
Eliminating Odors in Un-Mounted Hides:
When you soak a hide in preparation for mounting add some OdorXit to the water, (2 to 4 ounces (6 to 12 Tablespoons) per gallon of water) and let it work. When you are ready to mount the hide, the odor will be gone, and in a few hours, the OdorXit smell will be gone too.
Eliminating Odors in Mounted Hides
Hides that are already mounted can be sprayed with OdorXit solution to eliminate odors. Mix OdorXit 2 ounces (6 Tablespoons) per quart of water and spray it on the hide, hair and horns to wet the area that has the problem. Brush it into the hair and hide and let it dry slowly (do not use a fan). Depending on the animal and the amount of odor, you may have to treat the mount more than once to eliminate the entire odor. When the odor is deep in the hide, it takes a step by step approach with progressive levels of aggressive treatment to eliminate the odor. OdorXit must come in contact with the odor causing agent in the hide to make it stop stinking. Repeated superficial treatments will not solve this problem. OdorXit eliminates most glandular secretion odors. There are a few that do not respond and as they become apparent, we will publish the list so that you don’t waste your time and OdorXit on these problems.
Eliminating Pet Urine Odors in Hide Rugs:
OdorXit was originally formulated to eliminate pet odors in carpeting, flooring and other places where dogs and cats urinate. Eliminating these odors in a Bear Rug is much the same as the procedure required for any other odor in a hide. The affected area must be thoroughly wetted with OdorXit solution and left to work for several hours. Because urine has a tendency to soak deeply into porous materials, wetting both sides of the hide will improve the penetration and reduce the amount of OdorXit required to do the job. One additional note regarding urine contamination of a hide. Urine odor is produced when the urine residue is damp or wet. Since OdorXit solution is mostly water, the urine smell will get worse for a short time when first applied. This is absolutely normal and should be expected. By the same token just wetting the contaminated area will produce the odor. After you have completed your treatment of urine contaminated hide with OdorXit and the odor appears to be completely eliminated, it is a good idea to spray a little water on the contaminated area to test for more odors. Its better that you find it before you return the hide to the owner than after. Finally, you may want to offer some OdorXit to the customer to treat the flooring where the hide was laying when it was contaminated. Urine residue just does not go away by itself.
Eliminating Odors in Birds and Ducks:
Bird and Duck mounts present an interesting dilemma for taxidermist. The wings are covered with feathers and the bones are very thin and fragile. How does one remove the mussel and fat without destroying the skin and feathers. Preservatives and tanning agents, for the most part, do a great job, but what can you do when you have a duck or bird that smells like rancid fat or meat?
Injecting small amounts of 20 parts water to 1 OdorXit solution into the wing joints and fingers will eliminate these odors quickly and permanently. Spraying 1 oz (3 Tablespoons) to one quart water solution on to the feathers and skin will take care of the exterior.
OdorXit is exceptionally safe. It is nontoxic, non irritating, non flammable, non carcinogenic, non staining and is biodegradable. When treating urine, gives off no unpleasant and possibly harmful ammonia gas. Conforms to the RIFM and IFRA guidelines. It is not a primary skin irritant, nor toxic by oral ingestion or by inhalation. In concentrated form, may be a minor irritant when in direct contact with the eyes but is non irritating when diluted according to directions. In concentrated form, avoid open flame. If exposed to concentrate, eyes should be flushed with water.
Please always follow the instructions for OdorXit Concentrate.
WARNING:OdorXit is listed by the U.S. Department of Labor’s Material Safety Data Sheet (MSDS) as being a minor eye irritant when in concentrate form and non-irritating when diluted according to directions. OdorXit is a mixture of organic salts and oils that by their very nature have a small but not zero potential to cause allergic reactions in humans and pets. If any unusual reaction occurs, consult a physician immediately.
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